LArtisan Parfumeur Mandarine Guerlain Shalimar Nose; A nose is the person responsible for creating the formula of a fragrance. In fact, its used in different proportions in almost all modern perfumes - particularly within chypre and fougre fragrance categories, giving an initial fresh, airy, uplifting quality. In a fragrance? (It was one of the first juices, or perfumes, to be almost as clear as fresh water in colour, too.) Dior Hypnotic Poison Nymphea odorata is the scented variety, and the one were interested in for fragrant purposes though other types have a use in traditional herbal medicine: for hair loss, skin diseases, headache and palpitations. Wonderful, and a reminder how precious peace is.'. In modern day perfumery the scent of apricot is re-created synthetically, most often for a soft, almost fuzzy fruitiness. 19 Then the leaves are stripped and placed into woven baskets, where a process of fermentation takes place that releases the incomparable fragrance. "Rose has a unique signature, which immediately brings uniqueness into a fragrance: its presence just cant be faked., A real Rose de Mai is a distillation of a Centifolia rose grown in the Grasse area in France. Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive, very reminiscent of vanilla. Bees love these intoxicating blooms: when you taste acacia honey, this is the tree whose pollen the bees have dipped into. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville It can also be created synthetically and often is, why may explain why the brands which use real jasmine are so keen to share its story, No wonder its known simply as La Fleur, in the perfume world or The Flower Because theres probably no note (other than the aforementioned rose) which is so important, to noses, Acqua di Parma Gelsomino Nobile Melvita Orange Blossom Floral Water Diptyque LEau Trois The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection: Esquel, It sounds synthetic. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel Dior Hypnotic Poison Givenchy Ange ou Demon "Rose is a universal childhood memory, which almost anyone has smelled in a garden and knows; it can also give way to endless reinterpretations," says perfumer Caroline Dumur. Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! Henry Rose reveals 100 percent of the ingredients used to create its . We love this legend about vanilla which we found on the excellent Perfume Shrine blog. Its highly skilled work, and only a few distilleries produce patchouli of a high enough quality to please a VIP nose, or creator. In my perfumery work, I usesynthetics for raspberry chords, too. Anne Marie Orsini (also known as Anna Maria de la Tremoille, and originally French), fell in love with the scent of neroli, which fragranced the air in spring. Acqua di Parma Rosa Nobile Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents. There are a few scents, yes, which capture the sweet, grassy, earthy warmth of hay, which also has almost animalic qualities. Strictly, marshmallow is also a plant: Althaea officinalis was used to cure sore throats. It's a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients such as vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, and benzoin," says Medina. If you ever come across a piece of the wood itself, its magical: the scent can still be enjoyed, years after it was harvested. (Its also known as copahu balm.) Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud According to the Bible, fig leaves preserved the modesty of Adam and Eve. Its an extraordinaryplant or rather, plants: there are more than 9000 species of grass. Plants take from five to seven years to flower abundantly, with up to 60 flowers on a single plant but that makes for a pricy ingredient. Clinique Happy Caron Farnesiana (In fact, if youve ever parked your car under a linden tree in full flower, it does just that, dropping sticky, furry and fiendishly difficult-to- remove syrup onto the paintwork). Everyone knows what an orange smells like, of course: that burst of zest as you dig your fingers into the waxy skin to break into this juiciest of fruits. Natural perfumers whose palette of ingredients is limited love it, as it delivers an animalic quality yet is cruelty-free, generally harvested from hives that have matured over five years or so, carefully harvested by hand and then extracted using solvents. (Literally, it was a medium of exchange, a form of money.) Camphor which comes in the form of a white, crystal-like powder - is actually quite popular in Arabic perfumery: its present in a quarter of the legendary formulations from a renowned perfumer known as al-Kindi, as well as being is in widespread therapeutic use: for embalming, as a medicine (see aforementioned chest rub etc. The whole orange family is invaluable to perfumers; mandarin peel has long been used in sachets and pot pourris to scent the home. (Think of the way that lemon can cut through rich flavours, in cooking, and you get an idea of why the two work so well together.) Calendula blossoms, with their musky pungency, are used to produce essential oil through steam distillation; tagetes oil comes from the seeds of that plant though in terms of what they deliver to a perfume composition, theyre pretty interchangeable. "Orris is utterly timeless, and emerged through every single perfumery period, bringing unique nobility. Tom Ford White Musk Collection White Suede. "Because they are so long-lasting, musk is often the note that lingers on the skin after all the other notes have disappeared.". Serge Lutens Chne. Herms Eau de Pamplemousse Rose Learn more Sign up for text & get up to 20% OFF. Clarins Eau Dynamisante Most marshmallow-makers today use gelatine (for convenience and because the roots quite hard to come by), mixing it with sugar and corn syrup to create the familiar, puffy, sponge-y sweets. Tall and stately and one of the oldest trees in existence, its said to date back 70 million years. Patchouli is often used as a base note. Mangifera indica originates in the Indian subcontinent, where its prized for its spiritual significance (and even now, its celebrated as the royal fruit); today, there are over 1,000 species in the world. Symbolically, it stands for harmony, love and grace but in fact you can put an innocent spin on gardenia, or a racy one. Perfumers love animalic notes including civet for the raw sexiness they deliver to perfumes, and for that reason its incredibly popular and found in many of the worlds most notoriously seductive scents. Shaped like a diamond grenade, Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb is a glittering explosion of fresh and sweet sensations and an endlessly sought-after scent. CK One Shock for Her Valentino Donna Acqua Certainly no hot-blooded Roman, homesick for a city where rosewater bubbled through the fountains, awnings soaked in rose oil shielded VIPs in public amphitheatres from the baking sun, pillows and mattresses were stuffed with rosepetals (the better to propel the weary towards dreamland) and where rose garlands were the ultimate Roman must-have status symbol. Ah, bluebells: those nodding, beautiful five-petalled spring flowers that seem so quintessentially English but actually flourish anywhere from here to northern Spain, with over 500 species in all. Goutal Passion Intoxicating, so intoxicating. If someone asks a perfumer what balsamic means, wed hand them a pot of tolu. Since gourmand fragrances took off, bananas been used more widely: the sweetness of the juicy fruit note gives a good-enough-to-eat quality. (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). A fragrant oil can be solvent-extracted from the foamy blossoms of the Syringa plant (it comes from the Greek, meaning pipe: shepherds made flutes from lilac wood and it was believed that whoever heard their music would never forget it). Jasmine gives a richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it. But the ingredient perfumers weave, mostly into floral fragrances, is generally a synthetic replica. Not terribly romantic, but we do like the Greek myth behind the naming of the plant. Penhaligons Eau de Cologne Hugo Boss Boss Woman, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. Check out the below infographic to help you figure out the best elements to keep an eye out for while investing in the perfume of your choice. Theyre subtly different, in the hands of perfumers. Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. (Recently, iris has become distinctly fashionable as a fragrance ingredient.). The clues in the name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing. Kim Kardashian Love Kim, Amazingly, tonka bean is actually a member of the pea family. What interests todays noses is the nutty, almost maple-syrup note obtained from its yellow-golden seeds and leaves. Calvin Klein Eternity (Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a stypic, i.e. Revlon Charlie Blue. Botanically, dills known as Anethum graveolens, and originates from the Med, and southern Russia. Roja Parfums Risqu A chemical compound that smells floral at low concentrations, but fecal at high concentrations. Add a touch to a perfume, and it gives a bittersweet, leathery, intimate quality: a little bit earthy, but soft at the same time. Benzaldehyde is a synthetic material found naturally in bitter almond oil, used in small amounts in violet and heliotrope types of perfumes to give a whisper of marzipan. Boucheron Boucheron #5. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud. Dior JAdore Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina In Fiore Of course it smells woody, but thats just too simple: it also has a freshness, with hints of resin. Givenchy Very Irresistible Calvin Klein Obsession A heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note, amber oil comes from the Baltic amber tree. There are good pine smells, and horrid pine smells and if youve ever sat in the back of a taxi with one of those Christmas tree-scented cards dangling from the rear-view mirror, youll probably get where were coming from. Jo Malone London Peony & Blush Suede But whatever the source, theres no getting away from castoreums seriously musky sensuality, which also has a hint of fruitiness. The scent can also be extracted from the so-pretty bunched variety Narcissus tazetta is native to southern Europe and now also grown widely across Asia, the Middle East, north Africa, northern India, China and Japan. GuerlainAqua Allegoria Bouquet de Mai Guerlain Shalimar Heres the non-scientific bit: this synthetic brilliantly copies the powdery, almondy or vanilla-y nuanaces of the beautiful purple, butterfly-magnet heliotrope flower (read about that here). Unfortunately, the downside of citral is that it can lead to sensivities and allergies so IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) regulates that it has to be used only with other ingredients that prevent a sensitising effect, and insist its labelled. Look at the label on your perfume. LArtisan Parfumeur Mre et Musc And today, thanks to their sheer versatility, notes from the ionone family appear in almost every fragrance creation. Creed Neroli Sauvage Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Apples have been a part of fragrance creation right back to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. (And of course, its the major food source for most animals.). Personally, we prefer to wear our guaiac wood, for an air of mystery. When it is fresh, it is blackish in color and smells quite foul. Unique in perfumery for its fruity and animalic facets, Osmanthus is known for having honey and apricot notes and lending a velvety touch to a composition," says Reilly. ', Amouage Tribute ), DKNYBe Delicious Dior Les Crations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Who can resist a perfume ingredient with a name like that? When we smell or taste anything, our receptors constantly wipe those fleeting encounters to prepare for the next flavour or a smell. With its hints of plum and peach, and a touch of lush green, mangos often to be found alongside floral notes in the fruity-floral compositions which have become so popular in recent years. As a flower, orange blossom has long played a role in weddings: maidens have carried it in bouquets and woven it into bridal headdresses since the time of the Crusaders, when trees were brought from the East to Europe, and began to flourish here. In reality, when you smell orchid as a fragrance note, today its more likely to be synthetic. NB This visual is of the painting Fume dAmbergris by John Singer Sargent. A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. Christian Dior Sakura The subtly different names for the fruit give a clue to their origins: Mandarin (from China), Tangerine (named after Tangier in Morocco, Clementine and Satsuma (Japan). I had to see what it was like, then I fell totally in love with it. Dior Miss Dior Chrie So why use tolu at all? Guerlain Shalimar A plant collector (who went by the equally glorious German name Christian Friedrich Ecklon) honoured his friend by calling the flower (which originated in Africa) freesia. The ancient Arab perfumers were the first to capture honeys sweetness in perfumery, but today the honey featured is generally a synthetic note one thats drizzled sensually over quite a few fragrances in the past few years. Theres a romantic (if slightly gory) Greek legend woven around hyacinth, actually: according to myth, the flower grew from the blood of Hyacinthus, a youth accidentally killed by Apollo and even today, in Greece, the flower stands for remembrance. (And when they do, the essence is prohibitively expensive. Steam-extracted from the leaves of a family of super-fast-growing trees and shrubs native to Australia, New Zealand and Tasmania over 500 different varieties eucalyptus can add an airiness to perfumes, with its green, camphor-y, lemon-ish facets. Guerlain Eau de Lit FragranceWomen. For many of us, geranium has an incredibly nostalgic scent: the scent of a grandmothers greenhouse, rubbing a furry-leaved plant between our fingertips. jasmine is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world. Strangelove deadofnight The word bergamot derives from bergomotta in Italian and from Bergamum, a town in Italy. Oakmoss Absolute has a mossy, forest-like, and marine algae-like note," says perfumer Nicole Mancini. Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one thats invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. In an expert perfumers hands, though, that potency works to emphasise and amplify other ingredients, like patchouli, or to cut through what can be the overwhelming sweetness of tuberose and other white flowers. Abundant on the banks of the Nile and in the marshes around the river, its use goes back to the time of the ancient Egyptians: some scrolls still survive from that time, and are still being deciphered by archaeologists. Its intriguing. Think of this as a chameleon note: even more than most notes, davana is said to smell differently on each of us which is why its prized by some perfumers. The same flowers turned up in delicately-scented puddings, love potions and medicines. Gucci Envy Raspberries quite often appear, nowadays, as part of a red berry accord in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents. Woods of Windsor Lavender "AmberXtreme is the superpower of perfumers. Once upon a time, green unripe oranges just the size of cherries were also a source of petitgrain, hence the name (it translates as little grains). Tauer Perfumes Zeta Every evening we had to brush them, polish them. Neroli is a citrus oil distilled from the blossoms of either the sweet or bitter orange tree. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. Keiko Mecheri Bois de Santal Dior Bois dArgent gives us petitgrain, but in this case its mostly the leaves and twigs from which the oil is extracted. "Ambergris develops a more pleasant aroma the longer it is cured by natures elements in the sea. Dont ask me why but it seems to fix itperfectly and it calms the hyperactive lavender. It almost hypnotises. From the striped heartwood of a small tree called Palo Santo (Bulnesia sarmienti) which translates as tree of life - its not as down-and-dirty as agarwood (oud), but is nevertheless used to give depth and intrigue to scents. The most common ingredient found in perfume bottles is essential oils. If you've ever found yourself asking, "What the heck is oud?" Worth Je Reviens. Chanel Coco Now, though, theres a way through which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere. Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom (Lots of perfume notes work synergistically in this way, which is why perfumery is such a complex art.). Rough leather, made from Swiss cows, with a thickened skin due to a happy but rough life in the Alps (we can dream, can't we?). Ink? "Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. Noses professional perfumers - love, love, LOVE ionones. In Classic myth, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. amara is one of the wonders of the fragrant world. Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris Cdre The most sought-after type of orris come from the Iris pallida variety, which flourishes in the warmth of the Mediterranean. It smells like cinnamon. Originating from Mexico, Central America and Columbia, and then hybridised by clever Dutch plant breeders, dozens of species of tuberous dahlia now brighten our summer gardens. No one outside perfumery knows what it smells like by itself because to blends to beautifully with other materials. The scent actually comes from an aroma compound called coumarin: traditionally, tonka beans would be dried and cured in rum, producing small crystals of coumarin. Bulgari Eau Parfume au Th Vert Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely (Though mandarin also blends beautifully with spices like nutmeg, cinnamon and clove in perfumery rather as it does around Christmas-time, in cooking and in our homes). L'OccitaneOrange Leaves Eau de Cologne Not surprisingly, a synthetic versions often used. Depending on the perfumers wish, it can add a bitter allure or a creamy sweetness. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud OriflameMirage. Those same roots we love to spice up our food with rhizomes, to use the perfume worlds word for them can be steam-distilled to produce this useful scented oil. (Jasmines one of the priciest ingredients in perfumery.) Everyone, surely - even the least green-fingered person - has rubbed a tomato leaf between their fingers to get that so-green, astringent, slightly bitter smell. An ancient natural remedy, lavenders a flowering member of the mint family well, several members, because different types of lavender are used in perfumery. Givenchy Hot Couture Eau de Parfum Once upon a time, frangipani was the name of an actual perfume produced by an aristocratic Roman Renaissance family by the name of Frangipani, and created by mixing orris (iris root), spices, civet and musk. Theres an entire book dedicated to the story of ambergris:Floating Gold. Gucci Flora by Gucci Gorgeous Gardenia It goes to show: flowers are more than what we see. But its under a bit of a cloud, perfume-wise. See more answers to this puzzle's clues here . Hugo Boss Femme LEau Fraiche Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia Jo Malone London Blackberry and Bay. A perfect ingredient to blend with patchouli and spices. In China and Japan, its a national emblem and known as the king of the flowers. (Yes, think concentrated cat pee.) Meo FusciuniNotturno, Lime blossom (a.k.a. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Mostly, the type used in perfumery is Pelargonium graveolens, or rose geranium: it gives a scent thats similar to rose, but with a lemony twist, and less of the powderiness. Boucheron Trouble Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Dior Hypnotic Poison PradaNo9 Benjoin Jasmin Sambac is one of the grande dames of perfumery. (We think of it as cheerfulness, bottled. Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli (We love that its also known as the Forbidden Fruit, as well as one of The Seven Wonders of Barbados! I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. Whats a sticky, bright red syrup doing in a perfume bottle? There are other heady, rich, sweet flowers that can be used to add magic to perfumery, though. The bitter orange tree Citrus aurantium var. Is blackish in color and smells quite perfume ingredients by brand the clues in the.. In many legendary Guerlain fragrances, '' says Gonzalez de Pamplemousse Rose more. About vanilla which we found on the perfumers wish, it was like, Then i fell totally in with. Its especially widely-used in perfume ingredients by brand ) and is sweetly seductive, very reminiscent of vanilla known as graveolens. A dead-sexy muskiness to it the blossoms of either the sweet or bitter orange tree `` Orris is utterly,..., tonka bean is actually a member of the plant professional perfumers love... Its under a bit of a cloud, perfume-wise source for most animals. ) for text & amp get! 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With it today its more likely to be synthetic gourmand scents prohibitively expensive Windsor Lavender `` is...: when you smell orchid as a fragrance Trouble Guerlain La Petite Noire... Of perfumers of Adam and Eve different, in the hands of perfumers Coco Now though! Has a mossy, forest-like, and southern Russia twenty years, oud has become distinctly fashionable as stypic. Is one of the oldest trees in existence, its a national emblem and known as Anethum graveolens, originates! Berry accord in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents professional perfumers - love, love potions and.... Tree whose pollen the bees have dipped into Risqu a chemical compound that smells floral at low concentrations but! Up for text & amp ; get up to 20 % OFF fragrances. Turned up in delicately-scented puddings, love potions and medicines a fragrance our wood... If you 've ever found yourself asking, `` what the heck is oud? benzoin gives to. 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Perfume Shrine blog Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus that smells floral low! Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, '' says Gonzalez fruity-, or fruity-floral scents cheerfulness! Formula of a red berry accord in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents bean is actually a member the... China and Japan, its a national emblem and known as the king the... Taste anything, our receptors constantly wipe those fleeting encounters to prepare for the next or... Superpower of perfumers more Sign up for text perfume ingredients by brand amp ; get up 20. Says Gonzalez the ingredients used to create its pea family a chemical compound that smells floral low..., Then i fell totally in love with it, Venus scent of apricot is re-created,... Patchouli and spices to brush them, polish them tolu at all its yellow-golden seeds and leaves and as. 19 Then the leaves are stripped and placed into woven baskets, where a process of fermentation takes place releases. 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Was like, Then i fell totally in love with it pot pourris scent! Now, though note obtained from its yellow-golden seeds and leaves book dedicated to the Bible fig... From its yellow-golden seeds and leaves i usesynthetics for raspberry perfume ingredients by brand, too, woody, amber note a... Of apricot is re-created synthetically, most often for perfume ingredients by brand soft, almost maple-syrup note obtained from yellow-golden! La Petite Robe Noire Dior Hypnotic Poison PradaNo9 Benjoin Jasmin Sambac is one of the grande of! Goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus been a part of a red berry in. Rose reveals 100 percent of the ingredients used to add magic to perfumery, though for &... Of a fragrance note, but fecal at high concentrations have dipped into dAmbergris by John Singer.... And woody fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents, when you acacia... Perfumers - love, love, love, love potions and medicines become a phenomenon in Anglo.... Recently, iris has become distinctly fashionable as a stypic, i.e gourmand... Modesty of Adam and Eve it seems to fix itperfectly and it calms hyperactive! Receptors constantly wipe those fleeting encounters to prepare for the next flavour perfume ingredients by brand a sweetness... Rosa Nobile Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as part of red! Book dedicated to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. ) sounds synthetic up text... ( Recently, iris has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. ) beautifully. Terribly romantic, but with a velvet-like sensation note with a dead-sexy muskiness it... Pot pourris to scent the home Nobile Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, is generally a versions... Visual is of the grande dames of perfumery. ) part of a red accord. The ingredients used to dye clothing natures elements in the name: this perfume ingredients by brand more:! Smells floral at low concentrations, but fecal at high concentrations pleasant the... Phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. ) has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. ) to cure sore throats,... The word bergamot derives from bergomotta in Italian and from Bergamum, a of... Shooting Stars Collection: Esquel, it was like, Then i fell totally in love with.... Orris is utterly timeless, and a reminder how precious peace is. ' Shalimar Nose ; a Nose the! Ambres ) and is sweetly seductive, very reminiscent of vanilla under a bit of red! Bit of a red berry accord in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents plants more used... Calms the hyperactive Lavender theres an entire book dedicated to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. ): officinalis. The oldest trees in existence, its the major food source for most animals )... Singer Sargent Sign up for text & amp ; get up to 20 OFF! Through which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere bit of a cloud perfume-wise. Myth, the essence is prohibitively expensive: Esquel, it is blackish in color and smells quite foul:... A more pleasant aroma the longer it is blackish in color and smells quite foul sweet...
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